Last week, Gigi E. Santos took us through the basics of fitting and finding the right size for our body types. This week, she steps into the fitting room with us and gives us her expert guidelines to getting the most out of our bras and eliminating those annoying boob issues (e.g. side boob, chicken wings, popping cleavage, etc.) I’m printing this guide out and bringing it with me to my next bra shopping trip!
Gigi E. Santos of "Gigi Goes Gaga"
When you are properly lifted and supported, you not only feel better but you look significantly better — not just in your bra but under your clothes. For instance, I had a client today who told me she wore a size 38C and refused to believe otherwise. When none of the bras she tried on were working for her, I gently convinced her to let me take a few measurements and make recommendations. Before I wrapped my tape measure around her back, she looked at herself in the mirror, sighed deeply and said, “I really, really need to lose weight.” I hushed her up —
no self-hatred is allowed in my fitting room ever — and minutes later had her in a 36DD bra. I showed her how much smaller her back looked now, how all the “fat” on her sides and in her back that she complained about were smoothed out, and how perky her breasts looked again. This is my goal every single time I go to work — and it’s what I hope happens for you during your next bra shopping expedition.
Here are a few guidelines that, hopefully, will help you find success on your own. Perhaps next time we can talk about different problems with fit and their possible solutions, but this is a good start.

- The bra band should be worn low on your back, under your shoulder blades. This normally is the smallest part of your back. Make sure that the bra is level from front to back; you don’t want it to be riding up. Because the band should provide about 90% of your bra’s support, you want it to have a closer, more snug fit — rather than a loose one, which is what many women mistakenly think of when they think of “comfortable.” You don’t want it to be too tight either; you need to be able to slide about two fingers between the bra and your skin.
Bra band too high, hence, droopy cups. (Pic from Bratenders.com)
- When you’re buying a new bra and trying it out for fit, fasten the bra at the loosest hook. This is to ensure that as your bra stretches out, you will have room to tighten it. This will also extend the life of your bra, as there’s no use in wearing one that is no longer supporting you.

The character Joan Holloway from Mad Men suffers from some pretty tight straps.
- Tighten the straps so that you can slide a finger underneath it at the top of your shoulders: not so loose so that they slide off and not so tight that you see red marks on your skin. To check again if the band of your bra is doing all the heavy lifting, slide off your straps and see if the bra stays put.
- Bend forward at the waist and scoop your breasts — all of them — into the cups of the bra. This will help you eliminate minor puckering but will also allow you to check if the bra cups are too small or too large. I also do this every time I put on my bra to make sure that it is centered and that my breasts face front and upward. Bonus: check out your cleavage, baby!

Puckering fabric is a sure sign of too-large cups. (Picture: blog.bitsoflace.com)
- If you see gaps or wrinkling at the top of your bra, the cups may be too large. Try tightening the straps to see if this eliminates the problem first. If your breasts are overflowing on top or at the sides then the cups may be too small. It could also mean that the bra is cut too low for the size of your breasts and you’ll need to try a different style.
*Note: when you go up or down a cup size, you may also have to adjust the band size. Without going into technical explanations, when you increase the band size, the cup size is also increased. This is why the cups of a 32D bra are much smaller than a 38D. So for example, if a 34B is too small in the cups for you, try a 32C and a 34C, for starters, and see if either one fits you better.
- Check out the center area of your bra. It should lie flat against your chest. If the underwire is pulling away from your body then it is too small and you may need a larger cup size.
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Remember: not all bra styles will work for everyone even if they come in your size — just like with jeans. For instance, if you’re voluptuous then a skimpy bra may not be the right one for you. Also, not all women can wear a bra with an underwire, even if they are wearing the right size. If you suspect this might be the case with you, you will need to try on different underwire bras first to rule out the possibility that you’re simply wearing the wrong style.
- Breasts are unique. Even if two women measure the same size they won’t look the same in the same bra. Which brings me to an important point: don’t get stuck on a size; it’s merely a number, not a rating or score. I could elaborate on how bra sizes are determined but it would take up too much space here so I will say this instead: someone who is a 34C is not sexier than one who is a 36B; in fact, they are practically the same size, at least as far as bras are concerned.
- Your bra size will change many times throughout your lifetime — whether because you go up or down in weight (even five pounds can make a difference), start or stop exercising, or even because of normal hormonal fluctuations. Try to get refitted at least every year to make sure you’re wearing the right size. Also remember that you can wear different sizes based on the brands you buy.
- To keep your bra’s shape and support, you should change bras throughout the week. Remember: one to wear, one a spare, and one in the wash. Try not to wear your bra two days in a row; just like you, your bra needs at least a day of rest.
Thanks again Gigi for the awesome tips! What about you guys? What are the common issues you run into when underwear shopping?
Katrina Atienza, writer, wife, mom of two and fashion devotee, blogs at Plus Size Fasyon Mudra. Follow her on Twitter (@iggyatienza).
Fit it right: Secrets to buying the perfect bra
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